The Conversion kit contains:
    • Longer Tail Pipe (anodized blue)
    • Longer Tail belt
    • Solid engine mounts (anodized blue) in 2 parts
    • Clutch shaft to suit 46-50 engine.
    Where to Buy it?
    You also need to have:
    • 600mm Main Rotor Blades.
    • 46-50 size engine like TT50 or OS50 (<- recommended because of consistency)
    • 46-50 size muffler, tuned pipe
    • The conversion put a lot more stress on the rotor head, so check after each flight the plastic main grips but you may want to acquire a metal head from Quick-uk or Correct

    It is recommended to have the following upgrades:

    • Metal clutch as it may disperse better the heat produce by the slipping and is less prone to deformation than the plastic clutch.
    • A better cooling fan like the one from Quick-uk or Correct because the .50 create a lot more heat.
    • Radio flexing mods and good servo to have a tighter control system.
    • Use a governor to avoid rotor overspeeding during descent or when the pitch is near 0°
    • Aside from a metal swashplate and washout...
    • Fuel consumption is 55% more than a .30

    If you do not stress your heli with hard 3D, this mod is useless and the total cost of conversion (if you have no metal upgrades) can decide you to buy a real .50 class like the Raptor 50 or even a .60 class.

  • I am the proud owner of a Futaba Force field 9 (aka FF9) working in PCM mode 41.080Mhz. I came across some links saying that before 2011, I will be forced to throw it away or try to convert it in 35MHz (costs of conversion would out pass a new transmitter). In fact 41MHZ has been assigned to military in France, and is already forbidden in Switzerland... While Googling about more info on that subject, I found a lot of people presenting what must be the future of RC transmitter.

    Spektrum DX7 2.4GHz from www.spektrumrc.com

    In one sentence:
    2.4GHz, frequencies collision detection, 4.2Billions keys, 79 persons flying at the same time, bi-directional protocol, no more RF interferences (because only acting at 35Mhz)!
    The dream of all helicopter pilot. Currently only Spektrumis proposing a transmitter: the DX7

    The transmitter is also cheap: $300, compare to the Futaba 14Mz (2700 euro!!!)

    Their FAQ (frequently asked Questions) will better explain You the inside of that new technology.
    I will personally fly this year one more time on 41MHz (in France) except if there is already too much crash in my club due to interferences and wait for the DX9 (if a DX9 ever come out)
  • nullMake sure you have the basics down before getting too ahead of yourself...
  • 90 deg. CCPMbyCK_

    When in MMS mode, move the link from the blue ball to the red ball. Do this on both side of the swashplate.
    All credit toCK_

    "As for the 90 deg. CCPM, here's why I did it. I started with the stock 120 deg. CCPM with 3 9202s. If I banged the cyclic around quickly there was a lot of collective interaction. Try it for yourself. Wiggle the cyclic and watch the antirotation pin and jump up and down 1/8". The interaction happens because the servos are slow and the front swash input has to move twice as fast as the two in the rear for a fore/aft cyclic movement because the front ball is twice the distance from the center as the rear balls. If you move the cyclic faster than the servos can move then all three servos will move the same speed (the max speed of the servo) and collective interaction will happen because the front swash input is not moving at twice the speed of the other two. Curtis' 140 deg. or whatever it is on the Vigor CS puts the front ball exactly the same fore/aft distance from the center as the two rear balls. This means that all three servos move the same speed for a fore/aft cyclic input. No interaction.

    If you use 90 deg. then fore/aft cyclic only moves one servo. There can never be interaction if only one servo is moving. Lateral cyclic will move two servos at equal and opposite speeds. No chance for servos to "run out of speed" like with 120 deg. I still get a little bit of interaction but it's nothing like I had with the stock setup.

    Like I said before, I still don't know why 120 deg. is pretty much the standard and 90 deg. is rarely used when 120 deg. has much more collective interaction. Anyone got any ideas?
    Great response by Dr.Ben

    "Your info about the 140 degree CCPM is entirely valid. One drawback of having the single ele input up from is that the swash is less stable. 120/140 d. CCPM surrounds the entire swash with support. There is also a control power component here. One reason the big gun CCPM models such as the Fury and Vigor CS can pull such abrupt maneuvers is the combined input of the servos - two for any roll command, THREE for pitch command, and three for a collective command. 90 degree CCPM takes two servos out of the power equation on the pitch axis. I realize the control power issue is of less consequence in a 30 sized bird, but you asked why manufacturers don't employ 90 CCPM more commonly.

    Much of the interaction you saw is a direct result of the somewhat slow analog 9202's (still a hell of a good servo) and not the 120 d. CCPM per se. If you go to a upper or lower collective command and input a hard over roll input, you will note a pretty good collective interaction because the servo arm on one of the two roll servos is approaching centerline and thus moving its pushrod further, while the other servo arm is retreating from centerline and moving the pushrod less. This differential phenomena is present in all CCPM models with rotary servos and is somewhat minimized by using servo wheels large enough to avoid movement a large number of degrees off centerline. A linear output servo is the only way to avoid the problem completely; we ain't there, yet <g>. The Caliber 30 system might work a bit better better if the bellcranks were designed to create less swash travel per unit of servo movement (meaning equal ball input points on both arms of the bellcrank), and then larger servo wheels were used to get the collective/cyclic range needed (less differential effect).

    Ben Minor

  • 1400$ electricity yearly!!!!
    "A few weeks ago, we started investigating the possibility of putting Linux on an XBOX. We played with some ideas in our heads, a render farm, a cheap office computer or a distributed crypto platform, just to start. The idea required a little bit of elbow grease, a mod chip, Linux and a bunch of free time. " MORE on Anandtech

  • I recommend not to mount one! sometimes it is better to always remove the canopy...you can discover mechanical bug and do a quick check before each new flight.

    cheap way by elta68 better looking by CK_
  • kmel_nano_quads

    The General Robotics, Automation, Sensing and Perception (GRASP) Lab, located at the University of Pennsylvania, is already well known for its work with quad rotors. And now they can fly autonomously.

    Experiments performed with a team of nano quad rotors at the GRASP Lab, University of Pennsylvania. Vehicles developed by KMel Robotics.

  • Ce qui est dangeureux: c'est le port (40â € voire 70€ pour un kit hélico), les frais de douanes et de TVA: 25% de la valeur déclarée du paquet. Ce qui est bien: nouveautés 4 mois à 1 an avant les autres, toujours moins cher de 200€ ou plus sur un kit, 60% moins cher pour les piéces détachées.
    • Astuces: demander au vendeur de déclarer ou de conditionner le colis comme un cadeau (gift) et zou plus de frais de douanes!
    • Si le mode cadeau n'existe pas, demander lui de déballer tous les sachets individuelles et de n'en faire qu'un (en vrac dans un sachet sans réferences: bonne chance monsieur les douaniers! :-), si il vous demande une participation pour la manutention supplémentaire, accepter de bon coeur, mieux offrer lui la!
    • Demander au vendeur de spécifier un prix fantaisiste sur le paquet! ex pour 1000â €, spécifier 70€ vous ne serez alors que taxer sur 70€, mais pas rembourser en cas de perte du paquet, c'est vrai, mais c'est trés rare la perte de paquet surtout avec UPS, Fedex etc...
    • La période de noêl est propice: les douanes sont surchargés! c'est du vécu cela, noêl et nouvel an! c'est le moment.
    • Si vous êtes moins ambitieux, regarder en Europe! les différerences de prix sont des fois édifiantes.
    • Trichez! faites vous livrez dans un pays limitrophes aux droits de douanes moindres....chez grand mère en belgique, en allemagne, la suisse (7% de TVA et le droit de passer des valeurs sans déclaration jusqu'a 250€ par jour)
    • Oui c'est dégeu, oui le pauvre magasin du coin va mourir, oui encore des chomeurs...solutions? protectionnisme, fermer les frontieres etc... non sans blague, le gars au japon, il vit et fait des bénéfices aussi! le gars du coin qui nous a B.... pendant 20 ans, il a qu'a ce dire que il a mangé son pain blanc, ses meilleures années sont derrière lui!

    Exemple révoltant: la canopy du raptor 30: 48€ en france, $15.5 (+20€ de port) au japon, faites en venir 3, 2 seront presque gratuite! regroupez vous. Commander en quantité, regrouper vous dans votre club et voler sur la même machine!

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Actually on ebay.com

  • nullIf you have 15/16 percent (nitro/oil) mix fuel and want to go for 20% oil - it can made help the OS .32 to run cooler and have a little more top-end power.

    a = 1.28(d - c)/(1 - d/100)

    a = amount of oil you need to add (in oz)
    d = desired oil percentage (use 20 for 20%, for example)
    c = current oil percentage (use 16 for 16%, for example)

    So you if you want d = 20 (20% oil), c = 16 (actually you have 16% oil) result a = 6.4 (ie, add 6.4 oz of oil to each gallon of fuel).

    Note that by adding oil, you&39;re reducing your nitro % a little. My figures show that my nitro is now down to about 14.3%... Seems to be a good trade.

  • An original way to mount the sensorbysgunn911 
    correct cooling fan
    global view
    sensor mounted

    "Finding out that the GV-1 Brackets were not meant to be used with a Caliber 30's clutch hub being directly in the way, I decided to get creative.

    This worked out perfect, and is probably better that the normal installation method. I used a cooling fan from Correct, (item 416-141) and used the rim around the top to install the magnet. I then mounted the sensor on the TOP of the fan facing down and drilled a hole and shaped it to fit the sensor.

    The sensor now sits above the fan facing down, and is receiving at a 97% (which is very good). It also is mounted to the frame instead of a long bracket, and doesn't move around. This method also makes for a much cleaner look, as there is no brackets used to mount.

    All credits to sgunn911, his gallery at runryder and website CUSTOM-RC.COM
      "Installing the GV-1 sensor on the Caliber 30 can be tricky because the fan, where the magnets are mounted, is above the clutch. I've seen many modified brackets on the web to 'bend' the sensor around the clutch. However, I found that..."
    more on his site
  • the future is now here!


    I do not own currently a FMA copilot, but I plan to acquire one as soon as a CCPM version will be available. I want to use it only in some case: panic or brain short circuit. Many people complains about this new gadget, arguing that it is better to learn alone, yes this is true. On the other side, investing $100 is not an issue if you avoid 1 or 2 crashs.

    Fma Co Pilot Reviews
    www.fmadirect.com Review 1



    Experimental projects

  • You can insert some thin shimsbetween the engine and the engine mounts upper holes.(red points) This make the engine lean slightly forward and make the belt go lower down on the clutch bell.
  • If you want to pratice (hard) 3d, you need a good power to weight ratio, no 30 size on the market can give you enough power. You have a lot of choices:

    • Buy a 60, not recommended, it is too costly to repair
    • You can buy a caliber 30 and use an 0s46 engine inside, some people on www.runryder.com can help you. I do not recommend this mod, because the whole frame and head seem to be not of a good quality to support longer blade ans the stress of 3d flying.
    • You can buy a caliber 30 and use a TT39 instead of the OS32. I do not know if you will have more power through, maybe with 15% nitro...
    • You can buy a real 50, this is the way to go.

    The best 50 heli on the market as today is definitely the raptor 50v2: best because
    + part are inexpensive -> learning 3D is costly,
    + support a lot of crash (frame wont break as easily as with the caliber 30 frame), the plastic head seems to be immortal
    + you will appreciate the reliability and durability of part.
    + A lot of pilots use the raptor for training.+ you can buy a V2 then acquire the conversion kit or acquire the 50 and go back to a 30 after
    + come with a carbon frame stiffener, metal swashplate, a header tank: no need to buy anything else.
    - Only problem know on the 50 v2 is currently the jesus bolt: you may need to check it after each 5 flights (lot of failures in this area).

    The TT50 is a good engine and require no so much tuning as the os50, through I will recommend you to wait for the new os50 with the new carb. Here we are flying with 1% nitro (!) because in europe, nitro can cost an arm and a leg, even with 1% the TT50 run with stuning performance.
    If you like the EMS setup as I do (120° ccpm), you may want to have it on the raptor too, a compagny is now selling a unofficial conversion kit. Consider this as an upgrade.
    I do not know the sceadu 50, so I can not help you, maybe you can ask on runryder, there is a hirobo section for sure. The machine is old and all problems are known-> this is good
    If you are in a club, you may also take the same heli as your colleague if they are at the same level as you. It is always more fun to tune or pratice on the same machine.
    If you do not know this page www.raptortechnique.com I recommend you to visit it.

    The raptor is one of theif the most popular 30/50/60 size nitro helicopter out there flying today.
    The popularity is because of it&39;s good flying characteristics, the ability to upgrade to almost anything you want all the way up to the raptor 50(some have even put 60 helicopter engines in them). Metal upgrades are available everywhere and you can get technical help almost anywhere you go to fly.
  • kyosho_caliber_30

    Best RC shops for buying Kyosho Caliber parts


    I've already order 3 times without any problem from France.
    Ask them to underestimate price packet, it works!
    You may want to read this page to have more informations about my experience with them.

    I've already order 2 times without any problem from France.
    Ask them to underestimate price packet, it works!
    You may want to read this page to have more informations about my experience
  • futaba.14mz.rc Finally Got my Futaba 14MZ today, it’s a 14-Channel 2.4GHz Computer System from Futaba. I win it 5 days ago on www.ricardo.ch. A big Thanks to Juan Luis Suazo from Basel for the delivery and the nice talk we had about our common experiences using  RC helicopter. The next step will be to try to correctly configure this monster and do some practice in Reflex XTR

    reflex XTR

    It is the most advanced radio transmitter on the market. dot


    • DUAL internal processors for flawless reliability.
    • PCM G3 2048 resolution for unprecedented speed and precision.
    • Full color, touch screen display with Dial-N-Key button. Navigate through menus and make selections by touching the screen or using the Dial-N-Key button.
    • 2200mAh Lithium-Ion transmitter battery
    • Switch Customizing. Reconfigure the eight 14MZ shoulder switches to your own preference. Just pull out a switch to remove it, and plug in the style you prefer — tall or short, button or toggle, spring-loaded or positionable.
    • Stick Customizing-A tension adjustment lets you tailor stick "feel" to your own touch. Dual ball bearings on each axis and a long-life potentiometer ensure smooth, precise control.
    • Audio and Picture files-Using a Compact Flash memory card, modelers can upload JPEG picture images of their models that will appear on the LCD screen. Use the built-in mic to record and store up to 24 voice prompts -- like "Landing gear down!" and "Full throttle!" Assign them to specific switches and functions. Then, through the built-in speaker or included earphones, you'll hear audio confirmations of proper stick movement.
    • Compact Flash Card Data Storage & Transfer Increase memory to 100 models. Upload digital images of your aircraft for use as model names on the graphic display menu. Create and store audio files.
    • Silky smooth sticks- Each axis is supported by dual ball bearings. Stick tension and detent is adjustable, so airplane and heli modelers can personalize to their preference.
    • Preset Model Types Numerous aircraft configurations are already programmed into the 14MZ -- seven wing types and three tail types. That's a good example of the many built-in "shortcuts" that make this radio so easy to use. Just select the set-up you need!
    • Servo Grouping With the 14MZ, you can group multiple servos that control a single function onto one transmitter operation -- but plug the servos themselves into different individually adjustable receiver channels (even non-consecutively) without needing a separate servo synchronizer for mixing.

    Package content

    • 14MZ transmitter including (TM-14) RF module
    • 32 MB Compact Flash data pack memory card
    • 7.4V Lithium Ion transmitter battery
    • Lithium Ion transmitter battery charger
    • Wall charger for receiver battery
    • 1500mAh NiCd 4.8V receiver battery
    • Aluminum case with fully padded interior
    • Switch harness
    • Aileron extension cord
    • Y-harness
    • DSC (Direct Servo Control) cord
    • Woven adjustable neck strap
    • Rubber tipped stylus pen for touch panel, dress nut wrench, 2.5mm and 1.5mm hex wrench
    • Instruction manual


    Futaba 14MZ manuals

  • Equiped with :

    Motor: BrushlessKontronics (290€)
    Controller: Kontronics regler (90€)
    Gyro: CSM 180
    RX: Robbe R600
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Prafa ps101/Prafa ps101/Prafa ps101
    Tail-Servo: Prafa ps101
    Battery: 12 x 2000 mAh NiCdSanyo RC 2000
    Blades: quick uk CFK blades
    Weight empty: with canopy (gr) and blades (gr)
    Weight in flight: with canopy and
    Flight time:  
    Others: Aluso Rotor Head (193€), Aluso swahplatte (101€), Aluso Bell paddle (36€)

    Main body made of GFK, tail boom, tails fins (229€), main blade CFK (75€)

    Zoom on Aluso rotor head :

    Manual :

    Click here for downloading the Gensmantel heaven manual.

    Gallery :

    Bought on ebay, february 2002

    Aluso rotor head


    Aluso carbon paddle


    Side frame carbon


    Tail rotor, less pretty


    Left side view


    Controller in front.


    Weight is coming from
    the 12 cells battery.


    Idea of its size,
    beside is a krosoft


    Flight log :


    Setting up heli, not an easy task at all, because it is the first time thta i set up a ccpm heli. You can can find an help at www.jason.net/ where the complete setup is explained.
    Since this heli is a 12 cells, i can use the 6 battery from my eraptor (24 x 12 RC2000 + 4 x 12 RC2400), cool !

  • Some remarq about the original Frame:
    This is what a roswell look like when you first buy it. After some pratice, you will rapidly notice that the main frame (for me a big piece of shit) break easily in many places. That&39;s because it was designed for flying indoor. After gluing together the parts, I decided to replace it with something stronger.

    Pictures are like thousand words, so if you need more explanation, feel free to contact me...

    First Idea : redo the frame in the same material.


    My first attempt : using the same material as the original frame ("carton plume").
    It is really cheap, lightner than CFK but I decide it was not the way to go.

    Second idea : use gfk and add glue in some place to improve the original frame
    not tested.

    thrird Idea : do a new one with aluminium tube (instead of CFK, wich is really too expensive)


    yeah i am using small rope
    and CA glue, it is as strong as carbon


    it is light and strong, maybe a
    little too heavy

    The electronic circuit is mounted on top

    final look of the roswell

    I still have some problem to mount battery in it

    Symetric mounting as required by
    the original frame

    Do not forget to cut 2 tennistable ball
    (ping pong) for protecting the motor connections.

    Total cost :

    • Aluminium pipes : 12 FF
    • Epoxy glue (90 seconds) : 35 FF
    • Kitchen Aerator : 25 FF

    4th idea, build a bigger roswell based on the small one.

    On order to reuse the computer board, i will use new transistor (same reference as the original, it is only for protecting the board) and dissipator. The circuit board is using too small printed circuit. So I prefer to make an external power circuit.


  • kyosho_caliber_30

    If you have a problem with this helicopter or with another heli brand, I recommend you to visit the www.raptortechnique.com site. Most of the problem has been already solve for the raptor 30. Since all heli share the same design (and problems more or less), you can find many tips and idea for your heli.

    Equiped with

    Gyro: CSM 540 Heading lock
    RX: Robbe/Futaba R149DP PCM 41MHz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: JR NES 4231, JR NES 4231, JR NES 4231
    Tail-Servo: Super Servo JR 8700G numeric
    Battery: Sanyo 1200CR, Sanyo 1200 CR
    Blades: SAB 300 carbon fibre
    Other Futaba 3001 for throttle
    Motor OS32 SX-H + Hatori 3d pipe 350
    Number of Crash
    Flight log click here


  • kyosho_caliber_30


    17.08.2002 Lost 2 screws in manual page 7, stage 952.
    24.08.2002 Add a dual battery system for more safety. see Caliber Tips page
    10.09.2002 Run 8 liter in it in 3 weeks, you can flight 23min with a lot of
               fuel reserve before landing ! my swashplate has already a lot of slope
           (only making normal flight : mostly flying around)   
    burn approx. 18 tanks
    13.10.2002 3 tanks 50 min
    19.10.2002 4 tanks with the new Hatori 3D pipe, lot of power,
               Danger ! rubber was so small that the pipe was going to slipe
               out the rubber ! (caliber was oily) no damage (I was lucky)
    20.10.2002 3 tanks
    23.11.2002 3 tanks (3 weeks of non interrupted rain !), add a header tank.
    29.11.2002 3 tanks 43 min idle-up1, still raining the whole week without interruption...
    01.12.2002 1 tank
    22.02.2003 2 tanks 30min - 6°C outside, sunny day
    28.02.2003 5 tanks 65min - 13°C outside, sunny day
    09.03.2003 1 tank
    22.03.2003 3 tanks 14°C outside, sunny day
    29.03.2003 3 tanks 22°C, sunny day with clouds, fly only half a tank then crash :-( mechanical problem still unknow
    19.07.2003 1 tank replace pinion 96885 (was damaged)
    Fr 25.07.2003 0.2 tanks 28°C some clouds and wind, heli is too responsive on cyclic, decide to stop and go back to the bench
    Tue 13.08.2003 1 tanks 27°C 8h10AM to 11h00AM
                buy some parts and disassemble a fully equipped caliber, now caliber 1 has:
            - quickuk blue swashplatte
            - correct metal center hub
            - correct metal main blade grip
            - correct metal arms and flybar control
            - SAB 300 carbon fibre blade
    --------------- Using reflex simulator as main tools for practicing www.reflex-sim.de --------------------
    Sat 27.09.2003 1 Tanks 16h30 to 19h00 cloudy and start raining 19°C. pratice, heli is too responsive, need exponential now

  • kyosho_caliber_30

    If you have a problem with this helicopter or with another heli brand, I recommend you to visit the www.raptortechnique.com site. Most of the problem has been already solve for the raptor 30. Since all heli share the same design (more or less), you can find many tips and idea for your heli.

    My kyosho caliber 30 n°2, 22 March 2003

    Equiped with

    Gyro: GY401 Heading lock
    RX: Graupner XM16 FM 41Mhz
    Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo: Futaba 3001 - Futaba 3001 - Futaba 3001
    Tail-Servo: Futaba s9250 numeric high speed
    Battery: Sanyo 1700 SCR, Sanyo 1700 SCR
    Blades: wood stock blades
    Other Graupner C5007 for throttle
    Motor OS32 SX-H + Hatori Mufler 337
    Number of Crash
    Flight Log click here



  • kyosho_caliber_30


    18.10.2002 bought by a friend, he never do a hover or finish break in ! he decide to leave hobby after 2 consecutive crash.
    20.10.2002 1 tank finishing break in, already a lot of power, heli is very responsive (has still original paddle and not raptor one)
    21.11.2002 replace with raptor 30 paddle, add raptor 30 canopy mount, add a header tank.
    01.12.2002 2 tanks, crashed because of a brain problem while in front,it is really time to learn nose-in....
    08.03.2003 1 tank, windy 13°C , decide not to empty the tanks, the heli was shaging, reduce gyro gain, land and go back to bench. Found Tail belt to be loose.
    09.03.2003 3 tanks, windy 15°C, the last flight, the blade heat schrink become loose in flight, it made a lot of noise, but i land safely
    14.03.2003 1 tank (17 min), too windy 8°C, RAS except wind and gust, its dangerous to continue
    21.03.2003 found origin of tail wagging, tail servo was loose, replace all 4 screws
    22.03.2003 1 tank (20.5 min), 14°C sunny day, strong vibration, searching cause
    29.03.2003 3 tanks 22°C, sunny day with some clouds, change blade, no vibrations, fly with training skids only nose-in.
    01.05.2003 3 tanks 26°C, some clouds, learn nose-in
    12.07.2003 4 tanks 30°C. some clouds, orientation training  low altitude to recover sensation after a break of 2 months
    13.07.2003 1 tank 32°C. too much wind (strong gusts)
    19.07.2003 replace CSM400 because of drifts, tail servo go to full position on one side!!! replace with a GY401
    20.07.2003 4 tanks 38°C!!!. start at 8:00AM finish 11:00AM, start to wind, fly 2 tanks nose-in.
    Fri 25.07.2003 4 tanks 28°C some clouds and wind, heli fly great with new gyro, battery need to be cycled, last only 2 flight
    Sat 26.07.2003 3 tanks 29°C cloudy, no wind, fly one tanks nose in.
                   replace the second battery with a one of same capacity (1700mAh NiCad) as stated on battery clinic
    Sun 03.08.2003 5 tanks 25°C (40+22+35 min) 8:00AM finish 11:00AM, only nosein and transition 180°, training stick, we expected 38°C today!!!
                   2 tanks 30°C 19h30 to 21h only nosein and transition 360° and more! cool
    Sun 11.08.2003 3 Tanks 29°C (26+19+22 min) 19h30PM to 21h30PM only nosein and transition, had problems to fire up engine
    Mon 12.08.2003 3 tanks 30°C 7h50AM to 10h00AM only only nosein and transition
    Tue 13.08.2003 3 tanks 27°C 8h10AM to 11h00AM only nosein and transition, made my first 3 clockwise turn nosein! great
                buy some parts and disassemble a fully equipped caliber, now caliber 2 has a correct swashplatte and a
                metal throtle arm.
    --------------- Using reflex simulator as main tools for practicing www.reflex-sim.de --------------------
    Sat 20.09.2003 3 tanks 24°C 18h00 to 19h30 only nose in hover and transition, first nose in translation, slow and fast eight
    Sun 21.09.2003 2 tanks 20°C 09h10 to 10h30 only nose in hover and transition, first nose in translation, slow and fast eight
    Sat 27.09.2003 2 Tanks 16h30 to 19h00 cloudy and start raining 19°C. training
    Sat 19.10.2003 3 Tanks 15h30 to 17h30 sunny but cold: 12°C training
    Thu 20.05.2003 2 Tanks (15, 21 min) 16h30 to 18h sunny but a lot of wind: 27°C, nose in. I dontlose experience from last year.
    Sun 25.07.2004 5 tanks (22,25,22,23,20) from 10h30 to 14h no wind sunny 28C  

  • Caliber 30 upgrades parts fromCorrect
    courtesy authorization of company Correct
    Please note that I have no connection with the compagny Correct, simply I find their upgrades beautiful and want to
    show them here.

    approx. 200â?¬

    approx. 100â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 65â?¬

    approx. 200â?¬
    Mail of the compagny Correct: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
    Their Homepage: www4.ocn.ne.jp/~correct
  • <>
    The default muffler is great! It is not mandatory to change it, since it performed quite well. I buy the caliber 2 second hand together with these 2 mufflers, so why not mount them?
    Hatori 3d pipe 350
    A must if you run with high nitro percentage.
    Require to use the additional parts provided in kit.
    Hatori Mufler 337
    Not really interesting compare to the default muffler, except that it is lighter. Replace the default muffler with no change.
  • null
    Interesting dicussion on www.runryder.com


    Piro Flips with a rotating motion..meaning you would keep executing the flip at a different point, i.e (12:00, 3:00. 6:00, 9:00, 12:00).

    Credit to Augusto (www.)

    "A good controlled sustained piroueting flip will have the rotor disc flipping in the same direction while the tail pirouettes around the main shaft axis.
    Not too many people can do a good sustained piroflip. Most people piroflip and kind of "catch it" over and over so the disc is not flipping in the same direction.
    Now a chaos is a sustained piroflip where the pilot purposely and in a controlled manner does a maintained piroflip and slowly rotates the flipping axis 360 degrees to a full turn of the flipping axis.
    The big deal about this maneuver is that it shows that you have complete control of the sustained piroflip in any orientation of the flipping rotation.
    I have never seen anyone do a real chaos and Curtis told me he either saw or performed a good one only once or twice.
    Lately I&39;m practicing piroflipping rolling circles or maybe simply called piruetting rolling circles as a way to practice for when I try a real chaos. It will be the same as far as orientations is concerned but without the translational movement. Keeping it in a single place while slowly rotating the direction of the flipping is pretty tough.

    Regarding the circle, It&39;s important to understand that in the pirouetting flip the numbers of pirouettes per flip are not related or set in stone. You can describe a full flip while doing say 10 pirouettes or even a ful flip with say 6 pirouettes. Obviously given a certain constant pirouetting speed the lower the number of pirouettes the faster the flipping portion of the mainblades disc.

    The factor that controls how fast the flipping happens is the total amount of deflection away fom the center you apply. In other words the larger the "stirring circle" the higher the swashplate deflection hence the faster the flipping rate. Doing very small "stirring circles" in the cyclic will achieve slowly flipping piroflip that has a relatively fast pirouetting rate. Conversely applying a large deflection away from the center i.e. large "stirring circle" will make it look like a pretty fast flip with proportionally fast pirouettes.

    What I call "piro-cheating" while piroflipping is when people let it rest for a while while in the horizontal disc portion of the flip whether it&39;s right side up or inverted for about two full pirouettes and then continue with the piroflip. They let it rest a bit and then apply upwards momentum so that they can do the piroflip while hanging between upwards pushes. That makes the piroflip a lot easier but also a lot uglier. Doing a piroflip where the flipping of the disc has a constant rate of flip is a completely different animal. It&39;s obvious that there has to be upwards momentum applied but people need to learn how to make it happen without stopping the flipping portion to regain momentum. There&39;s a world of pitch management that happens in that small amount of time.

    Take a look at this clip and notice that the flipping stays constant and there&39;s no resting time when the disc is horizontal. Also in this case the deflection circle is small and as you can see there is a high number of fast pirouettes for each flip. Notice also how the direction or orientation of the flipping portion stays somehow constant throughout the piroflip. The clip is not too good an example but it servers the purpose of illustrating the mechanisms of what I&39;m explaining.

    Totally agree with Augusto&39;s posts. Work on your timing first to get the flips so the rotor disk constantly flips in the same direction. Then you can work on rotating the flipping direction.

    Other than increasing cyclic at a particular point to &39;shift&39; the pirouetting flip or the chaos in a certain direction, I find thottle/pitch management important to be able to control the whole manouver. After increasing cyclic of your desired direction,depending on how far/fast I want to travel, I would also add a little extra throttle to the flip but in the direction I want to move. This is more important for when you do piro-flippin&39; loops or fly around doing constant piroeutting flips.

    Piroflip and Chaos Practice
    Credit to Pete Niotis

    "PiroFlip Practice: Keep doing a repeated async pirouetting loop in the same spot. Make smaller/tighten as you progress...that&39;s it!
    Chaos Practice: A series of very small/tight Async Pirouetting Loops where each complete little async pirouetting loop keeps being placed/rotated in a different location relative to the flight line. For example...spool up heli side in (nose right for this example), climb to a comfortable height let&39;s say 10-20 feet and go right into a tail stand, begin a constant pirouette dropping and forming a radius within a few decending feet while pirouetting and begin forming another pirouetting radius travelling to your right as to make heli ascend knife edge while pirouetting where now the outside of disc is facing right as you get to the top, at the top or end of the climb start adding negative collective while still pirouetting which leads you to the same spot you started with the exception that now the inside of disc is facing left side of field and here&39;s where you would drop to start another tight async pirouetting loop but you would also add the necessary cyclic inputs to place next loop at 12:00 or 6:00 position all dependant on which way you prefer or which way of rotation compliments the flow of your chaos. Keep in mind that placing each async pirouetting loop 90 degrees from last position will probably not be as good as placing each 45 degrees from the last position. To simplify understanding all this...practice these async pirouetting loops bigger at the beginning and just keep tightening them up and making them smaller as you progress and you&39;ll soon have a chaos."